Exclusive Interview: Designer Natalia Petruch

Selections from Natalia Petruch’s debut collection under her eponymous label

The path that led to Natalia Petruch's recently launched eponymous label traces back to her passion for sculpture, where she envisioned couture as wearable art. In an era dominated by fast fashion and mass production, this approach has found renewed appreciation due to its scarcity—but the tide seems to be turning in favor of a return to excellence and quality.

Following her university education, London-based Petruch honed her skills working alongside design luminaries such as Iris Van Herpen and Christopher Kane. These experiences not only deepened her understanding of label management, but also fueled her determination to find her own way in the industry. Now, with her debut collection, Petruch brings forth a fusion of her inspirations and influences, underpinned by a commitment to craftsmanship and sustainability. Each piece is meticulously made to order, embodying elevated luxury and aligning with Petruch's vision for wearable art in fashion. She recently spoke with Open Color about her creative journey and future aspirations:

When did you first realize you wanted to be a designer? How did you enter the industry?

Firstly, my journey into the world of design began with a deep-rooted passion for art. I immersed myself in the study of fine art, particularly drawn to sculpture, where I envisioned my future unfolding. However, as I contemplated the realm of applied art, I saw fashion as a captivating fusion of artistic expression and practicality, akin to sculpting with fabric. This realization sparked my transition into fashion design. I pursued my studies at the London College of Fashion, where I delved into the intricacies of the craft and refined my skills. During this transformative period, I had the privilege of internships at renowned fashion houses, including Iris van Herpen and Christopher Kane. These experiences not only broadened my perspective but also solidified my passion for design, propelling me further into the industry with a fervent determination to carve my path.

What were some key turning points in your journey toward founding your own label?

My journey toward founding my own label was deeply influenced by my experiences as a freelancer and in-house designer following my graduation. These years of working in various capacities within the industry provided me with invaluable insights and honed my skills, but more importantly, they ignited a longing within me to fully express my creative vision.

Driven by an insatiable passion for design and an unwavering desire to find my own voice in the fashion world, I embarked on the path to establishing my own label. My soul yearned for the freedom to manifest my unique perspective and infuse my creations with the essence of my being.

At the core of my creative ethos lies a profound appreciation for the intricate interplay between melancholy, nostalgia, and whimsy—a sentiment that resonates deeply within me and serves as the guiding force behind my designs. I endeavor to fill a niche in the fashion landscape that speaks to individuals who, like myself, possess a boundless imagination and a penchant for self-expression.

My aim is to create garments that serve as vessels for emotion, transporting the wearer to a whimsical world where nostalgia intertwines with modernity, and melancholy finds solace in beauty. Through my label, I strive to empower individuals to embrace their creative souls and celebrate the multifaceted tapestry of human experience through the art of fashion.

How did you approach designing your debut collection? What was your process when sourcing materials?

My process began with thorough research and developing concepts that really resonated with me. Then, I turned those inspirations into actual designs by sketching and refining ideas until they all fit together into cohesive themes and stories.

When sourcing materials for my debut collection, I was guided by a commitment to quality, sustainability, and innovation. Collaborating closely with trusted suppliers and artisans, I sought out luxurious fabrics and embellishments that not only met my aesthetic standards but also aligned with my brand values. From sumptuous silks to ethically sourced embellishments, each material was carefully chosen to imbue my designs with a sense of opulence and craftsmanship.

Please describe the ideal client for your latest collection. Who do you envision wearing your designs?

My latest collection is crafted with the discerning individual in mind, someone who not only appreciates the artistry and detail in my designs but also shares my values of sustainability and ethical practices.

One of my clients said Helena Bonham Carter needs to get to know my label! And I definitely agree, haha! However, beyond celebrities, my ideal client is anyone who values the beauty of consciously made garments and accessories. From locally sourcing materials to reducing overproduction through on-demand manufacturing, we're committed to minimizing our environmental impact while supporting local artisans and communities. Our dedication to transparency ensures that every step of our production process meets our rigorous standards. And when it comes to packaging, we've ditched plastic in favor of recyclable materials, because we're on a mission to make the world a greener, more magical place.

How do you unwind from the demands of the studio and the responsibilities of entrepreneurship?

I indulge in my passion for literature, particularly XIX century French classics like Balzac and Flaubert. Immersing myself in these captivating stories allows me to completely forget myself. They take me to another world! Additionally, I find solace in keeping a journal and exploring creative writing. It's a great way for me to unwind and take a break from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

What advice do you have for aspiring designers?

My advice is to always keep the bigger picture in mind and believe in yourself. It's easy to feel overwhelmed by the saturation in the industry but remember that your unique creative perspective is what sets you apart. Never doubt the value of your ideas, as the world has never experienced someone quite like you before. Take moments to close your eyes and visualize the larger vision you have for your designs and your career. Trust in your abilities and stay true to your creative vision.

What is next for your label? What are you currently working on?

My next step involves catering to the feedback from my customers. They've expressed a desire for more smart-casual items suitable for everyday wear, so I'm currently working on a smaller, more casual collection. Even though it's smaller in scale, it still adheres to my values and signature style. This collection will be featured in September. However, looking ahead to next year, I plan to unleash another full-on creative and artistic collection. I believe it's crucial to strike a balance between expressing my true creative vision and providing designs that my customers can cherish and enjoy for everyday wear.